Route "Cresta del Leone" SW
A dream for most of the alpinist!!! Le seigneur du Valais et du Valtuonenche.
During the first three days, you will prepare yourself with ascents focused to improve your technique and to acclimatize in the company of your guide for the crowning of your objective: reach the summit of the Matterhorn.
The last 3 days are dedicated to the ascent, one day is extra.
Reaching the top of this extraordinary mountain via its most beautiful ridge will be reason for great satisfaction. The general difficulty grade is AD (assez difficile - quite difficult with climbing grade III), pitches of higher difficulties are equipped with fixed ropes.
Program
-
Meeting point:
- cable car station in Cervinia
- on demand: Aosta Train Station
- on demand: bar "Barbarossa" in L’Aquila, to travel with the alpine guides. To be agreed with them in advance.
-
1st Day
Torgnon – Bivouac Rivolta (2900 m)
Gap: --
Time: --
-
2nd Day
Bivouac Rivolta (2900 m) – Punta Tsan (3320m) – Torgnon
Total ascendig gap +420m; descending gap -420m
Average duration: 7h.
-
3rd Day
Climbing school in Valtournenche – Breuil Cervinia – téléphérique Plateau Rosa (3470m) – Refuge Teodulo (3317 m)
Gap: --
Time: --
-
4th Day
Refuge Teodulo (3317 m) – Bivouac Carrel (3830 m)
Gap: +1300/-800 m
Time: 7h
-
5th Day
Bivouac Carrel (3830 m) – Matterhorn / Cervino (4474m) – Breuil Cervinia (2000m)
Gap: 650 m
Time: 9h
-
Return:
- to Cervinia at about 17:00
- (on request) to Aosta train station
Technical requirements
Excellent physical training, good alpine tecnique (use of crampons at 45° – rock climbing III grade).
The program can be modified or interrupted by the mountain guide due to the insufficient technical level of the participants or for meteorological reasons.
Equipment
Possibility to rent: helmet, high altitude boots, harness and crampons.
- Harness
- Ice ax (max length 60 cm)
- Classic anti-bot crampons
- High mountain boots (for crampons)
- Helmet
Clothing:
- Sunglasses for high mountain / glacier
- Cap
- Buff – Foulard
- High mountain gloves
- Breathable T-shirt
- Fiber turtleneck sweater
- Windstopper or fleece jacket
- Waterproof jacket (ex: Gore-tex, pac-lite, conduit…)
- Mountain pants in schoeller
- Mountain socks
- Gaiters
Inside the backpack [40/50 lt maximum]:
- One fiber T-shirt
- Thermal pants
- A pair of mountain socks
- Ski mask
- Extra light gloves
- A headlamp with new batteries
- Personal pharmacy kit (compeed patch, aspirin, high protection sunscreen, ...)
- Waterproof overpants (ex: Gore-tex, pac lite, conduit, k-way)
- Camera
- 1 lt bottle or Thermos
- Paper towels
- Sleeping bag liner
- Case with toothbrush and toothpaste
- Sun hat with visor
Included
The accompaniment of the mountain guide and his expenses, half-board in refuge, the use of common materials, packed lunch at midday (the packed lunches of the first two days and for the ascent to the Matterhorn will be purchased before ascent from the organization and transported by group members).
Registrations are accepted upon payment of a non-refundable deposit equal to 25% of the fee. Payment 10 days before the start of the activity.
NOT Included
Beverages, eventual rental of personal material and anything not specified in the issue "Included".
In case of modification of the itinerary due to causes external to the organization (adverse weather conditions, technical level of the participants, etc.) the unforeseen expenses will be debited to the participants.
Any missing material may be provided by Mountain Evolution based on availability or rented.
Cartography:
- Swiss map Matterhorn 1/25000
- Map Kompass
- Map Alp Cervino Vivalda Editori – Ingenia 1/35.000
Tourism Office Breuil-Cervinia:
- Address: Via Guido Rey,17 11021
- Phone: +39 0166 949136
- Fax: +39 0166 949731
Tourism Office Media Valle del Cervino:
- Address: P.zza A. Rolando – 11020 ANTEY SAINT ANDRE’
- Phone: +39 0166 548266
- Fax: +39 0166 548388
Tourism Office Valtournenche:
- Address: Valtournenche Via Roma, 49 – 11028
- Phone: +39 0166 92029
- Fax: +39 0166 92430
- web: www.montecervino.it
Hotels in the area:
- Leonardo Carrel
- Address: Briuil Cervinia
- Phone: 0166 949077
- Fax:
- web:www.albergocarrel.it
- Albergo delle Funivie
- Address: Via S.Bernardo,2 – La Palud 11013 Courmayeur (AO)
- Phone: +39.0165 89924
- Fax: +39.0165 89636
- email: info@hotelfunivia.com
- web: www. hotelfunivia.com
- Auberge De La Maison
- Address: Via Passerin d’Entrèves,16/a – Entrèves 11013 Courmayeur (AO)
- Phone: +39.0165 869811
- Fax:+39.0165 869759
- email: info@aubergemaison.it
- web: www.aubergemaison.it
- La Chaumiere Camp Base
- Address: 322, route des Gaillands Chamonix
- Phone: +33(0) 4 50 53 13 25
- Fax: +33(0)4 50 53 70 81
For informations and registration: